Helena Elston
November 6, 2026 / Photo: Courtesy of Adam Norby
Helena Elston’s eponymous studio showcases regenerative textiles and mycelium’s decompositional design potential.
Elston worked for years in fashion, but eventually found that the industry’s wastefulness was impossible to overlook. She decided to pursue a degree at London’s Royal College of Art to research biomaterials and more environmentally-mindful textile production. It was there that she first learned about mycelium — a network of interconnected fungal cells called hyphae. Mycelium is an intrinsic part of our ecosystem and helps fungus grow/regenerate while deftly breaking down organic matter.
Elston recognized the powerful role mycelium could play in creating compostable materials and eventually launched a design studio showcasing its potential. She has since created a striking series of designs using secondhand materials and the fungal network’s regenerative properties.
To create her work, Elston will make mycelial growth on deadstock fabric or textile waste, then turn the resulting material into garments, accessories, and art.
The jackets, tees, dresses, paintings and bags look like they are slowly merging with the natural spaces they once came from. They also highlight how decomposition plays an imperative role in sustainable textile production and how fashion can coalesce with the environment in striking and unexpected ways.
While Elston may begin a new project with a desired outcome, she says that in order to work with the organic properties she uses, she must be adaptable. She recently showcased a series of mycelium garments and art at a group NYFW exhibition, and dressed principal dancer Indiana Woodward for the New York City Ballet’s fall fashion gala.
In the coming months, Elston is working on a bag collection as well as material that can be applied to interiors, art, etc.
More about Helena Elston and her design studio can be found here. Is it still possible to add something about reaching out for commissions or available pieces?
